Socio-Economics and History
The traditional way of life of many aboriginal Canadians, Alaskans, ‘Cajun’ Louisianans, Siberians, Namibians and Afghans involves hunting, fishing, trapping or herding.
Fur gives these people the possibility of maintaining and reinforcing their traditional lifestyle and cultural values. Fur also contributes to many economies in different parts of the world. Find out some facts and figures about this and the important role fur production, manufacturing or retailing plays in these communities.
Fur has a very long history and has always been valued for its warmth and protective qualities. Learn more about the history of fur fashion from its earliest beginnings and how it has developed right up to the present day.
“The traditional Cajun lifestyle”
Fur Types
Karakul lamb (Ovis aries) One of the oldest breeds of domesticated sheep in the world. Also known as Persian lamb and Astrakhan. Pelt is distinctive for softness and lustrous wavy curls. Typically used for full fur garments such as coats and skirts, as well as trimming.
Canadian Marten (Martes americana) Wild furbearer found in Canada and parts of USA, cousin to the Russian sable. The marten exhibits particularly soft and lustrous guard hairs with dense silky underfur. Typically used for coats, jackets and trimming.
Mink (Mustela vision) Denmark is a major producer of farmed mink. This is the most common farmed species, producing dense, lightweight fur. Wide range of natural colours from white to black, taking in pearl, violet and sapphire, demi-buff (medium brown) and “ranch” (very dark brown). The fur can be worked in many ways, including shorn, knitted and also dyed in many different colours. Used for coats, jackets and trimmings.
Musquash (Ondatra zibethica) Semi-aquatic mammal which is very prolific. Found wild throughout North American and Europe, the former Soviet Union and China. Thick, waterproof underfur with long, glossy overlayer of guard hairs. Colour varies from lightweight brown to black. Often used for coats, jackets and trimmings.
Sable (Martes zibellina) Wild fur-bearer found only in Russia, sable is the most expensive fur, highly valued for its rarity, lush dark colour and deep, silky pelt. Ranges in colour from dark brown (almost black) through brown to pale yellow/golden. Also farmed to a small extent. Used for garments, trimming and small pieces such as stoles.
Facts and figures
- Most farmed fur, which accounts for 80%-85% of the global fur trade, comes from Europe and North America. The largest producers in the EU are Denmark, Finland, Netherlands and Poland.
- Fur farming is regulated according to national, agricultural and environmental standards, EU directives and professional codes of conduct and guidelines.
- In the EU, European fur farmers abide by a European code of practice which incorporates the revised Council of Europe Recommendation on the keeping of fur animals.
- Fur farming plays a valuable role in the recycling chain by making efficient use of the animal by-products of the fish and poultry industries. Each year over one million tonnes of these by-products are used in the EU alone.
- Wild fur accounts for 15%-20% of the global fur trade, with Canada, Russia and USA as the main suppliers.
- Wild fur production helps maintain natural eco-systems and the economies of hundreds of remote communities around the world.
- The majority of wild species used by the fur trade are taken as part of wild life management programmes, necessary for the maintenance of biodiversity, healthy eco-systems, population and disease control. The wild species taken are abundant.
For more information about International and European fur farming, please visit the IFTF website and the European Fur Breeders Association (EFBA) website.
The Furrier’s Art
Fur garments are made up by furriers, skilled craftsmen and women, working in small workshops using remarkable skills which they have acquired over many years.
The furrier craftsmen study traditional and modern techniques in order to fashion fur - the soft versatile material with which designers love to work and women adore to wear. Fur embodies the traditions of human craftsmanship that few other modern products possess. However, fur is no longer confined to exclusive or expensive clothing or to full fur garments. It is also being used as trims and accessories.
New and improved processing techniques have been developed, for use in preparing fur garments. These include plucking, shearing, knitting and weaving. This means that fur garments can be made more lightweight.
Fur has also entered the world of interior design. The soft, luxurious qualities of fur make it an obvious choice for throws, cushions and bedspreads.
“Fur embodies the traditions of human craftsmanship that few other modern products possess.”
Links
Fur trail - http://www.furtrail.co.uk
International Fur Trade Federation (IFTF) - http://www.iftf.com
IFTF hotlinks page - http://www.iftf.com/iftf_3_5.php
Origin Assured - http://www.originassured.co.uk
European Fur Breeders’ Association (EFBA) - http://www.efba-eu.com
Sagafurs - http://www.sagafurs.com
American Legend - http://www.americanlegend.com
Kopenhagen Fur - http://www.kopenhagenfur.com
Nafa - http://www.nafa.ca
Leather Technology Centre - http://www.blcleathertech.com
Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) - http://www.cites.org
The World Conservation Union (IUCN) - http://www.iucn.org
Socio-Economic Impact
- Retail Fur sales worldwide totalled US$13 billion in 2008, an increase of over 58% compared to the end of the 1990s.
- In the UK, there has been a significant growth in fur sales over the same period.
- EU retail turnover was €3billion in 2008.
- Today, fur is not only sold through fur retailers but through many fashion houses and designer boutiques.
- More than 1 million people are employed full-time in the fur industry worldwide.
- Nearly 117,000 fur enterprises exist worldwide – retailers, manufacturers, dressers, brokers, etc.
- In the UK fur brokers buy a large part of the world’s fur at auction such as in Helsinki, Copenhagen and North America representing a turnover of some £400-£500 million a year for the UK.
- In Denmark fur farming was worth 750 million Euro in 2006 and is that country’s third largest export after bacon and cheese.
- In Finland, fur farming is worth 250 million Euro. It is more valuable than beef farming and helps to maintain viable rural communities.
- In the USA, retail sales of full fur and trim garments are worth US$1.2 billion with a total of 189,550 people employed in the fur industry, full and part time.
- In Canada, fur contributes C$800 million to the Canadian economy, with about 70,000 people involved in all sectors of the trade.
- Hong Kong is the world’s largest importer of farmed fur skins and remains the leading exporter of fine fur garments to the value of more than US$ 320 million annually.
- In Russia, the value of the fur trade is over US$2.5 billion.
- The fur trade helps support the traditional lifestyles and cultural values of many Aboriginal Canadians, Alaskans, ‘Cajun’ Louisianans, Siberians, Namibians and Afghans who live in regions hostile to most agricultural activities. Participation in the fur trade allows them to maintain and reinforce their traditional lifestyle and cultural values.
Fur - the natural responsible choice
History
Fur has been valued since the Stone Age for its warmth and protective qualities.
Ancient Egyptian civilisations attached great ceremonial importance to dressed animal skins and furs, which were worn as a symbol of power and luxury. In Homer’s Greece, fur was used not only as battle dress but also for home decorations.
In Northern Europe, fur was first worn as fashion on the inside of cloaks and as trimming from the 10th century. During the 11th and 12th centuries, hats made from beaver skins first became widely fashionable. This trend developed into making fur caps, gloves, muffs, collars and linings for coats during the 14th century.
The European demand for fur, in particular beaver, was to drive the early history of North America, as French and English adventurers, traders and eventually governments competed to trade for furs with aboriginal Americans.
The fur coat, as we know it today, was a Victorian innovation of the late 19th century. This was the first time that it became fashionable to wear the hair on the outside of the garment, as opposed to using it for linings or trim. From 1900, fur started to appear regularly in collections of leading French fashion designers such as Paquin and Poiret. The development of the motor car further increased the demand for warm, rugged fur coats to protect the driver and passengers. By the 1930s fur was also used in abundance by designers as trim for coats, collars and cuffs.
During the 1950s, designers including Christian Dior, Jacques Fath and Balenciaga started to experiment with less formal garments, exploring new techniques and breaking away from traditional fur coats of the early 20th century. The 60s and 70s took this experimentation to a new level, a trend that has continued through to the present day.
Fur Types
This is an introduction to the origin and characteristics of some of the most common furs used today. The common name of the fur is given together with its scientific Latin name
North American Beaver (Castor canadensis) Large, semi-aquatic, wild animal from North America. Long guard hairs are very dark brown to reddish or “blonde”. Often plucked or sheared by designers to show soft underfur and to reduce weight. Used for trimmings and full fur garments.
Coyote (Canis latrans) Abundant North American wild furbearer. Produces long, dense fur ranging in colour from cream to dark grey. Fur used for full coats and trim.
Finnraccoon (Nyctereutes procyonoides) Today, predominantly farmed in Finland, but also known as Asiatic Raccoon. Thick and lustrous fur with a natural colour range from beige through to brown to reddish brown. Often used in trimmings and sports coats.
Silver Fox (Vulpes vulpes) Finland is famous for its farmed foxes. The most precious of the fox furs is Silver Fox. It is a long glossy lightweight fur with natural colours in black and white. It is a handsome velvet-black colour with dense long guard hairs that mostly shade into silvery white towards the tips, thus giving the fur a beautiful silvery shimmer. Silver fox is traditionally used for collars and cuffs, wraps and stoles.
Blue Fox (Alopex lagopus) Farmed blue foxes are dark to pale grey in colour. Can also produce almost white fur, known as white or shadow fox. Often dyed in many shades. Soft and thick hair is often used for collars , trimmings, jackets and full-length coats.
Farmed and wild fur
The British Fur Trade Association (BFTA) is a member of the International Fur Trade Federation (IFTF). The IFTF promotes strict codes of practice that meet or exceed established and accepted animal welfare standards for wild and farmed fur. The BFTA and IFTF strongly condemn cruelty to animals and do not trade in endangered species.
The welfare of wild or farmed fur species is of paramount interest to the fur sector.
The BFTA contributes towards worldwide animal conservation and welfare programmes through its membership of the IFTF. The IFTF is a member of the IUCN (also known as the World Conservation Union) whose mission is to “conserve the integrity and diversity of nature and to ensure that any use of natural resources is equitable and sustainable”.
Wild or farmed, fur is a natural, renewable and sustainable resource that is kind to the environment and respectful of animals’ welfare
BFTA Design Competition
Each year there is an increasing interest in the BFTA Design Competition. This is open to students from fashion colleges across the UK. The purpose of the competition is to encourage students to be creative and to discover endless possibilities that fur gives to designers.
Entrants are required to sketch a collection of garments and/or accessories incorporating the use of Origin Assured fur. A dozen finalists are invited to attend a workshop where they learn about new techniques.
Students should get in touch with BFTA in October to find out details of the forthcoming BFTA Design Competition.
The designs are judged and three winners will have their garments made up using fur.
The winning garments are put forward to the International Fur Trade Federation’s (IFTF) design competition ‘REMIX’ organised by IFTF in Milan.
In 2008, 2009 and 2010 the UK entrant was one of eight finalists for the International Fur Design Competition.
In 2010 the UK entrant won the Silver Award at REMIX - image shown.
Contact us for more information and a competition brief. Students should e-mail us details of the college they are studying at and name of the course.
Celebrities and Fur
Many celebrities from film, fashion and music are wearing fur.
Arguably the world’s most influential model, Kate Moss is frequently photographed in fashion forward furs.
Carine Roitfeld, Editor of Vogue France and named one of Vanity Fair’s Best Dressed, makes fur a front row staple of fashion week.
Maggie Gyllenhaal selects fox, and keeps her look low key by matching a simple dress with a classic fur stole.
Further celebrities as shown include Mary J Blige, wearing a mink coat and mink scarf, Lindsay Lohan in a mink capelet, Michelle Yeoh in a fox shrug, Rachel Zoe in a golden sable capelet, Agyness Deyn wearing a coyote coat.
Care and Remodelling
After a harsh winter, solvents, salt, dust, dirt and other destructive agents must be gently removed from your fur coats and accessories.
Professional cleaning and storage will help preserve fur garments and accessories, extending their life span and assuring you years of enjoyment. Find out more about how to store your fur garment
If the style of the fur you bought a few years ago is no longer to your taste it can be adjusted or reworked into a more comfortable fur in a modified or a totally new style. You can give your garment a new updated look and feel.
British Fur Trade Association (BFTA) members can provide expert remodelling, fur coat cleaning, fur conditioning and storage services. Please contact the BFTA on info@britishfur.co.uk, if you want the phone number of your nearest furrier.
Why Real Fur?
Real fur cannot be matched for its beauty, softness and glamour. The attraction of real fur is also in its touch, its feel, and in its three-dimensional quality. Designers speak of the way real fur plays with light and movement.
Furthermore, real fur is a natural sustainable product, delivering rare benefits in sustaining fragile habitats and communities. This contrasts with most ‘fake’ fur which is manufactured from non-renewable petroleum based products.
Real fur is a durable material – quite the opposite of disposable fashion. Provided it is well looked after, real fur will continue to look good for many years. Real fur can be re-styled into different pieces as fashion changes.
Today, vintage fashion and vintage fur is sought after by many young people. If new to fur buying vintage could be the way to discover the luxury of real fur as vintage fur offers good value.
Fur is Fashionable
Fur provides the designer with a fabric which is beautiful, opulent, soft and gentle. By its very nature, fur is inspirational.
Nearly 400 national and international designers including Alexander McQueen and John Galliano currently use fur in their collections. Stylish furs are now a key element in fashion more than ever. This is evident from the recent fashion weeks in London, New York, Milan and Paris. The website www.fur-style.com contains the latest haute couture and ready-to-wear collections.
About Us
The BFTA (British Fur Trade Association) represents the fur sector in the UK, promotes high standards and champions fur fashion.
BFTA is a member of the International Fur Trade Federation (IFTF). The IFTF promotes strict codes of practice that meet or exceed established and accepted animal welfare standards for wild and farmed fur. The BFTA and the IFTF strongly condemn cruelty to animals and their members do not trade in endangered species.
BFTA represents over 95% of the British fur industry.
BFTA members are retailers, brokers, and manufacturers.
BFTA fur broker members buy a large part of the world’s fur at auction such as in Helsinki, Copenhagen and North America representing a turnover of some £400-£500 million a year for the UK.
For further information, please email us: info@britishfur.co.uk
Fur - the natural, responsible choice
The BFTA’s (British Fur Trade Association’s) registered address is: Brookstone House, 6 Elthorne Rd, London N19 4AG. Company number: 161287
“The BFTA (British Fur Trade Association) promotes high standards and champions fur fashion and the fur sector.”
Latest on Origin Assured (OA™)
A designer representing the UK recently won the Origin Assured prize at the International REMIX competition in Milan.
Eliana Dimitrakopoulou was awarded the Origin Assured prize at REMIX 2010 for her purple multiwear mink cape. Following the results Eliana said: ‘It is a great pleasure to win this award. Winning the Origin Assured (OA™) award is fantastic - I fully support OA™.
To view a new promotional four minute film explaining Origin Assured please click here. Please visit the official Origin Assured website for more information.
Click to view a list of Origin Assured retailers.
Fur Workshop
Saga Furs Creative Director, Dorte Lenau Klint, recently gave a demonstration to UK fashion students. As finalists of the BFTA Fur Design Competition 2010 the students took part in a one day fur workshop in London.
The Fur Trail
Fur trail is a web-based educational initiative, launched in autumn 2008. It meets UK curriculum targets and is ideal for children (aged 12-14) who are learning Geography or Design & Technology. The website contains three downloadable study packs, videos and teachers’ notes.
Fur - the natural,
responsible choice
Through communication with the media, designers, fashion colleges, politicians, officials and the general public, the British Fur Trade Association (BFTA) seeks to provide a positive, factual image of the fur sector. Read more>
Origin Assured
The BFTA promotes high standards and champions fur fashion. With this in mind BFTA has recently introduced a new consumer assurance initiative - Origin Assured (OA™).
Fur Workshop
Saga Furs Creative Director, Dorte Lenau Klint, recently gave a demonstration to UK fashion students. As finalists of the BFTA Fur Design Competition 2010 the students took part in a one day fur workshop in London.
